Thursday, January 13, 2005

The Evolution of Breakfast

Canadians and Americans are generally not highly regarded in the culinary world. Because our nations are assimilative melting pot cultures, there isn't a thousand-year old style of cooking that has been refined over generations that we can claim as our own, as far as I can tell.

Instead, wave after wave of new immigrants have led to diversity, which is, in general, a good thing. The variety of choices available to the average consumer is mind-numbing. However, some would say that cooking in North America is a jack-of-all-trades/master-of-none affair. Of course, you can make a strong case for personal preference, but anyone who has had authentic Chinese food can't help but despair at the glutinous, gloppy deep-fried tragedy that passes for Szechuan food here.

I know I'm painting with large strokes, but in general, when we think of highly cultured cuisine, most of us tend to think of France, Italy, India, or Thailand as our inspiration. There are certain regional delicacies in North America to be sure, but it's easy to trace them back to their ethnic origins as opposed to attributing them to homegrown genius.

Nevertheless, North Americans have perfected what many nutritionists regard as the most important meal: Breakfast.

In Turkey, breakfast is a modest affair, featuring bread, cheese, tomato slices and olives washed down with tea served in a small tulip-shaped glass. Northern Europeans favour coarse dark bread, pickled herring, and coldcuts, and a typical Thai, Chinese, or Korean breakfast is, for the most part, indistinguishable from lunch or dinner.

While I appreciate the food of many different cultures, I've found no breakfast culture that compares to that of North America. While Germans are fond of their mueslix served with yoghurt, the vast variety of berry-laden multigrain cereals testify to the importance of the meal in the minds of North Americans. The intensity of the quest for a more appealing breakfast option has led to the evolution of breakfast. Go to Europe. Try to find a cafe that will serve you coffee in anything other than a six ounce cup. It can't be done. Fluffy, decadent pancakes with butter and maple syrup would likely gag a Frenchman with their decadence, and omlettes do not come stuffed to the gills with ham and cheddar. Sure, the Belgians have their waffles, but did they ever think of adding chocolate chips to them; can they double as life rafts in the event of a Tsunami? I don't think so!

While "Freedom Fries" will go down in history as an emblem of xenophobia, North Americans can proudly hold up the mighty pancake as the sign and avatar of our domination of the early-morning culinary world.

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